Saturday, September 5, 2009

Mataram and Cakranegara
Mataram and Cakranegara. Mataram is the capital of the province, which has in the past decades joined with Ampenan, the port, and Cakranegara to become the province’s biggest urban complex. At the beginning of the 18th century, Mataram was the residence of the crown prince of Karang Asem, a kingdom in southern Bali. The ruler had his seat in Cakranegara. Lombok’s biggest Balinese temple is the Pura Meru in Cakranegara; it was built in 1720 by Anak Agung Made Karang. Dedicated to the Hindu trinity of Shiva, Brahma and Vishnu, it has three courtyards. Three pagoda-like places of worship stand in a line from north to south in the innermost courtyard. The one on the north is dedicated to Vishnu and has a roof with nine tiers. The central one is dedicated to Shiva with 11 tiers on its roof, and the southernmost one is for Brahma with a roof of seven tiers. Nearby is Taman Mayura. Once part of the royal palace, it has an artificial lake set in the middle of a park. A raised path leads from the side of the pond to a pavilion built in the middle of the lake. In former days justice was meted out and religious rituals were performed in this open-sided pavilion.


Pura Lingsar
Pura Lingsar. This may be the only Hindu shrine in the world were both Hindus and Moslems come to worship. About 7 kilometers west of Narmada, it was built 1714 and rebuilt in 1878 to symbolize harmony and unity between the Hindu Balinese and Moslem Sasak population of the area, especially those who adhere to Lombok’s unique Wektu Telu school of Islam. The Balinese temple is built on higher ground, behind the Moslem section of the compound. In the lower yard is a spring near which pilgrims stage a mock battle between Hindus and Moslems, hurling rice cakes at each other.


Sengkol
Sengkol, Pujut and Rambitan. Time seems to have frozen in these three villages in southern Lombok on the road from the capital to Kuta Beach. All the houses and barns are built in the age-old traditional style, and life continues daily here as it has for centuries.


Taman Mayura
Taman Mayura. The Mayura Park is all that remains of the Karang Asam kingdom of Bali, who’s King A.A. Ngurah, structure called Balai Kambang, which once functioned as a legal court of Justice and a hall for important meetings. Curiously, its architecture shows both Hindu and Islamic influences, adorned with stone statues in the form of a Moslem hajji.


Sape, Sumbawa
Sape, Sumbawa. Shipwrights still make sailboats the traditional way in this port town on Sumbawa’s east coast. Sape is a convenient point of departure for trips to Komodo Island across the strait, home of the prehistoric Komodo lizard.


Pura Agung Gunung Sari
Pura Agung Gunung Sari. This great temple on a hill at Gunung Sari, about four kilometers from Mataram, was the site of the infamous Puputan battle, fought on November 22, 1894, between Lombok’s last Balinese ruler, Anak Agung Nengah and followers, and the Dutch troops under General Van der Vetter’s command.


Narmada Park
Narmada Park 11 kilometers from the east of Mataram, was built in 1727 by King Anak Agung Gede Ngurah Karang Asem as both pleasure garden and place to worship Shiva. Its big pool is said to represent Segara Anakan, the Crater Lake on the volcano Rinjani, where they used to make offerings by throwing valuables into the water. As the king became too old to make the pilgrimage up the 3,726 meter high mountain, he had Narmada constructed to represent the mountains and the lake. Near the pond is a place of worship and a spring whose water is believed to give dedicated pilgrims eternal youth.

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